Load up your bike and check the following:

(Note: If this all sounds like Latin to you, you can find a glossary of bikes terms here.)

Wheels and Tires

• Check the tires to make sure they’re inflated properly. A little under-inflated offers better traction and a slightly cushier ride, but takes more effort pedaling. An over-inflated tire is easier to pedal but bumpier, and it gives slicks a little less traction.
• Ensure wheels are securely bolted to the frame and bolts are in good shape. Ensure wheels are centered between both sides of the forks (and the brake pads).
• Check tires for wear and anything protruding.
• Ensure the valve of the tire tube is perpendicular to the hole; if it’s at an angle, it may bend and pop.
• Ensure valves are screwed down (if using Preston valves) and the valve caps are on.
• Spin each wheel and look for wobbles that might indicate the wheel is warped. Anything more than a quarter inch of wobble should be fixed, as should any deformation that causes the wheel or tire to rub against the brake pads (when brakes are not engaged)
• Check that spokes are not bent or loose; shake each wheel slightly from side to side to check bearings for looseness.

Handlebars

• Ensure handlebars are tightened to the forks and don’t roll back and forth, that they turn freely and don’t grind or rattle.

Seat

• Ensure seat is firmly in place and the bolt beneath it is in good shape (i.e., not rusting and likely to snap) and that it does not shift back and forth, up and down, or suddenly slope to a slant.

Brakes

• Squeeze your front brake lever hard, then try to push your bike forward; do it a couple of times. Use the quick adjusters to make any small adjustments. Repeat for back brake.
• When your brake is fully engaged, you should still have about an inch of space between the brake lever and your handlebars.
• Pick up your bike and spin both wheels to make sure the brakes aren’t rubbing against the wheel.
• Inspect the brakes and ensure they’re bolted/screwed or otherwise fastened into place.
• Check your brake pads to ensure they’re not too worn. Bike touring, especially in hilly or mountainous terrain, chews away at your brakes faster than city biking.
• Check your brake cables, especially the ends to ensure they’re not fraying or loose.

Derailleurs

• Move the derailleur controls back and forth and watch that the actual derailleur moves accordingly.
• Ensure you are able to shift up and down through all gears.

Gears

• If your gears are wearing down and starting to look pointy and more like sharks teeth than gears, your chain may start to slip, which can be awkward and annoying when biking long distances. It’s also an indication your chain may need to be cleaned and oiled or needs replacing.

Pedals

• Ensure pedals and cranks are fastened securely.
• Lift the back end of the bike and use your hand to spin the pedals. Look for wobbling and listen/feel for any grinding.

Bell, Lights, Reflectors

• Ensure all bells, lights, and reflectors are firmly attached to your bike, and work properly (notice if your light is getting dim).

Luggage

• Check that panniers and other items are securely fastened and not rubbing against the tires or chain.
• Check that there are no strings, straps or other things that might get caught on/in your tires or pedals or gears or chain.

The Idiot Check

• Look around you and ensure you haven’t forgotten anything, or left anything behind.

The Test Drive

• Kick off and test your brakes slowly, first your back brake, then your front.
• Weave back and forth to feel how the tires are responding and how the handlebars feel.
• Cycle through your gears one by one to make sure the derailleurs are working.